Mayiet Releases Resort 2016 Collection
By Maya Singer
June 9, 2015

For the women who have cham­pi­oned Maiyet on prin­ci­ple, today was a ban­ner day. Declan Kear­ney, the label’s new cre­ative direc­tor, has made it pos­si­ble to endorse this eth­i­cal brand in prac­tice, i.e., by wear­ing it. Until his appoint­ment ear­lier this year, Kear­ney was the design direc­tor at Alexan­der Wang, and he brought that street­wise sen­si­bil­ity to bear on his debut Maiyet collection.

The brand’s boho DNA remained firmly in place; Kear­ney just rewired it, apply­ing arti­sanal touches like Indian thread embroi­dery and hand-​​knitting to crisp sports­wear looks. Cases in point included a trim shibori-​​dyed tee with a rein­ter­preted Bre­ton stripe, and the collection’s ter­rific pea­coat, clas­sic in color and shape, which was elab­o­rated by sub­tle metal­lic embroi­dery around the pock­ets. These clothes came off as pleas­ingly famil­iar, but there was a sense of handmade-​​ness that allowed them to feel novel.

Another way of break­ing down Kearney’s modus operandi here would be to say that he revis­ited var­i­ous nuts-​​and-​​bolts pieces from a styl­ish down­town girl’s wardrobe and added a lib­eral appli­ca­tion of warmth. Some of that was due to the craft elements—not just tra­di­tional eth­nic tech­niques, but cou­ture ones, too, like fag­got­ing and fil coupe—and some of that was due to the tac­til­ity of the col­lec­tion as a whole. Even a suit of cotton-​​wool twill had an invit­ing nub to it, while the numer­ous items in soft suede, bouclé, or ham­mered satin offered even richer textures.

All of which, taken together, plus the pretty flo­ral prints and the arti­sanal details and so on, would have made for sen­sory over­load were it not for Kearney’s tal­ent for sharp, straight­for­ward cuts and his pen­chant for a chillaxed atti­tude. The laid-​​back vibe was evi­dent even in the lineup’s gowns, which ranged from slen­der, elon­gated tanks in ham­mered satin or flo­ral fil coupe to diaphanous, sundress-​​style maxi dresses with (huz­zah!) an inter­nal bra top incor­po­rated into the pat­tern. Women with more ample breasts will rejoice. So will all the women who have been aching to sup­port the Maiyet mis­sion and now have some gen­uinely cool clothes to choose from, not to men­tion seri­ously natty ranges of shoes and handbags.

Do good, look good. Here’s to that.

Learn more about Maiyet at: www​.maiyet​.com